It is wise to get an OBD code reader

OBD Readers are used to find the amount of emission from the engine of the vehicle. OBD refers to On-Board Diagnostics. At initial stage it is used for checking emission amount only. But later on, improvement in technology has made the OBD readers to get the real time data from the engine. They have to be just plugged in, so that they will get connected to the computer of the vehicle. Then they will send data that can be used to do the complete diagnostics of the status of the engine.

The vehicles that came before 1996 used OBD 1 readers. These readers have codes and definition that differ from one manufacture to another. Now the vehicles are using OBD 2 readers. These readers have standard codes and definitions. Most of the OBD 1 reader vehicles are not compatible with OBD 2 readers.

It is wise to get some training on using an auto scanner since this is not your everyday plug-and-play device. Some auto scanners are self powered while others require an external source such as the cigarette lighter power source. The training will help you know how to use the auto scanner to clear the error codes the OBD is displaying; constant flashing of the error codes via the OBD can be a distraction to the driver especially while driving at night.

You also ought to know that there are different auto scanners for OBD I and OBD II since OBD I has a different connection portal from that of OBD II. This is however solved via an adaptor which is used to connect OBD II auto scanners to OBD I systems.

Detection of the exact location in the vehicle where the problem has occurred becomes efficient with the help of the OBD readers. Sometimes without correct identification of the problem we will change some parts in the vehicle. The replacement of some part will cost very much. The cost of OBD readers is very less when compared with the cost spend on such types of wrong detection. And also fixing the reader in the vehicle will reduce your visit to the mechanic for minor problems. Since the problem is detected by OBD readers, you can solve the minor ones by yourself. Only the major problems need to be taken to mechanic. If your mechanic try to cheat and get more money for minor problems, you can become aware of that with OBD readers. And also for the mechanics, the OBD readers help a lot. The exact part to be checked for solving the problem can be identified with the help of the data received from OBD readers. This will reduce the time and effort spent on investigation of the parts that are not at all related to the problem itself. When compared to the advantages provided by OBD readers, the cost spend on them is very less and is also affordable for the vehicle owner.
It is wise to get an OBD code reader,it can save you much money,You can go this website to have a look.
http://www.fcardiagnostictools.com/

How to get codes without code finder?

Q:1.My local NAPA said there is a way to get a code from the car, with the blinking engine light, without a code finder...he said he doesn't remember how,but that you do something with your key and the engine light will blink...i've always though you need the OBD code reader for that...is he right?...if so, anyone know how?...thanks....
A:what sort of monte do you have and what year .As fgar as I know there is no way to do that with the key and engine light you need a obd to check engine codes .You can go to cap or advance auto and they will put the obd reader on your car . The guy at napa does not know what he is talking about just by him say"he doesn't remember how" is a dead giveaway he does not know. good luck
2.The blinking engine light for retrieving codes was used on GM vehicles with the OBD I through '95. But, some vehicles do not comply and require an auto scanner.
Q;i put in the jumper wire, turned the ignition to on, but not starting the engine...the check engine light blinked once, then stayed on...not sure what that means according to the instructions...i'm lost again
A:Is it a single flash or a series of flashes? 1 long and 2 short flashes would be a '12' meaning no codes have been stored. It may also be that your particular vehicle requires a scanner to retreive the codes.
Q:it's one short flash, then it stays on....
A:If no codes are being displayed when you jump the A & B terminals then it's possible that your vehicle requires a scanner in order to retreive any trouble codes. You are jumping them prior to turning the ignition ON, correct?
Q;yep...i put a paperclip between A and B...then i turn the ignition...it goes on, and goes off, then comes back on and stays on...i'll have to check a couple local mechanics and see if they have a scanner that would work on this year...my normal mechanic, for my daily driver has already told me he won't work ont he car because it's too old...he did the same with my 84 Bronco and has never worked on it...so i have to find someone new i gues...thanks....
i installed a new MAP sensor...let it run for a while to get used to it...tried to drive and it's still giving the same problem...i have to floor it to get it moving...if i don't feather it and i just slam on it, it stalls out and pops under the hood...once i get up to speed it cruises fine...so pulled it back into the driveway and did a seafoam treatment...started it up after 5 minutes, it smaoked, then stopped, but still same problem...so i tried the paperclip to see if any codes came in and i'm getting this one...21 TPS voltage was above 2.5 volts for 8 seconds when the MAP sensor signal showed manifold vacuum to be 15 pounds or more
A;If you're still getting the code after replacing the TPS I would double check installation to insure it was done correctly and check the wiring for the TPS to make sure the circuit is functioning properly. It's also possible that there is carbon build up in the throttle bore that is causing the throttle plate to not operate smoothly and hang up.

The problem with my Nissan Maxima

I have a 1997 Nissan Maxima and is idling very rough (check engine light is on). I replaced the fuel pump, 4 oxygen sensors, a cam position sensor, new spark plugs and the ignition coil on cylinder #6. I hate to spend more money on it since everything (like the ignition coil or fuel injectors) are very expensive without getting an idea that the problems will be resolved> BTW, I replace the MAF sensor also.
Ok….firstly, bummer. I’m not sure who guided you into thinking replacing parts haphazardly was going to repair the problem…but they should be avoided in the future.
The check engine light is on, this means the ECU is holding a code telling you exactly which item is causing a failure. You can get this code pulled for free…no joke, at just about any auto parts store. The code will give a description of the sensor it originated from, what the most likely cause is, and the repair(s)/parts necessary to clear it/fix your problem.
I don’t want to come down on you for replacing all those parts, it certainly didn’t hurt anything….but it was unnecessary for the most part. That light comes on for a reason, the computer stores a code for a reason. Even if the light goes off and the car acts up chances are the ECU is holding a malfunction code. It takes about 30 seconds to pull the code, this should point you in the right direction.
With shop and Maxima ownership experience I can pretty much guarantee you have an EGR failure. (Exhaust Gas Relief Valve) The valve is clogged or the solenoid that opens and closes it has failed. This is very common, particularly on your year Maxima. It’s a fairly inexpensive repair that can easily be done in your driveway. It may be something else but I’m 95% sure that’s what a good code scan will tell you.
Go get the codes pulled and go from there. Don’t buy any more parts until you’ve done so!! Autozone stores will do it for free no questions asked, others may ask you for a “deposit”…you take the auto scanner out to the parking lot, pull the codes, and take it back inside to get the “deposit” back.